英文报刊翻译：北京魔力

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Beijing's magic
北京魔力
翻译: pare

Nowadays, many of those exiles have returned home and joined one of the most exciting contemporary-art scenes in the world. But the explosion in Beijing's arts world is only one aspect of a broader cultural, social and even commercial flowering of the capital, until recently a symbol of authoritarian conformity to many outside China. Much has been written about the transformation of Beijing's hardware ahead of this summer's Olympic Games--both the whirlwind of development that has swept away huge swaths of the old city and the waves of cars that are choking its roads and poisoned its air. But to those of us who live here, it is the metamorphosis of the city's "software," as it hurtles toward becoming one of the globe's great cities, that is really striking. "It is a horrible place to live, but I wouldn't be anywhere else on the planet" is how Kaiser Kuo, a Chinese-American rock star turned digital guru, describes Beijing today. "You get addicted to the excitement, speed and change. There's nowhere else like it."

而如今，这些流放者回来了，赶上了当今世界艺术最令人激动的盛会。但是北京的艺术世界只是这个首善之区更广阔的文化，社会，甚至商业繁荣的冰山一角，而一个繁荣的首都则是中国获得世界认可的权威标志。奥运前有很多关于北京硬件改造的报道，旋风般的发展抹掉了一大片一大片的旧城区，街道上大排长龙的拥堵的汽车污染了空气。但是对我们这些住在这里的人来说，当这个城市超着国际大都市飞速前进的时候，"软件"的变异着实很吓人。"这地方就不是人住的，哪都比这强！"，郭凯瑟，一个中国籍美国摇滚明星转型的数字大师这样评价北京，"你会对这种狂热，速度和改变上瘾，世界上哪有一个地方想这样的。"

Beijing today is a vibrant, increasingly confident metropolis of nearly 20 million, the proud leader of a national social and cultural transformation that is developing hand in hand with China's amazing economic boom. In culture, the blossoming encompasses performance art, painting, sculpting, rock 'n' roll, experimental music, film, poetry and literature. Commercially, where once it conceded all to Shanghai, China's longtime economic powerhouse, Beijing is now at the forefront of a wave of entrepreneurship in telecoms, media, software and the Web. Socially too, Beijing is on fire, with new clubs, bars and restaurants opening every day. The city, which can still mark the year its first privately owned restaurant opened (1980), now boasts some 20,000 dining establishments, whose fare ranges from increasingly refined cooking from all corners of China to haute cuisine from world-renowned chefs like New York City's Daniel Boulud, who has been in the capital to supervise the soft opening of his first restaurant outside the U.S. Recently, Boulud and I toured one of the city's bustling wet markets, then dined on our purchases at the new eatery, in a building off Tiananmen Square that housed the American embassy until the communist revolution in 1949. "Beijing has been slow in catching up, but now it is going through a renaissance," says Boulud.

There is, of course, one area where little has changed: politics. Despite allowing Beijingers (and indeed all Chinese) vastly more freedom in their personal lives, the Communist Party still suppresses any public discussion of the legitimacy of its rule or talk of alternatives to the current authoritarian system of government. And there's no doubt that the same party cadres that allowed Beijing's cultural flowering to happen still have the ability to smother the creative explosion if it gets out of hand.

当然，还有一块地方纹丝不动：政治。中共尽管允许北京人在私生活上有更多的自由，但是任何公开谈论其统治合法性和当今独裁政权体系改变的行为都会被坚决压制。毫无疑问，那些允许北京文化繁荣景象发生的官僚仍然有能力使这次创意大爆发胎死腹中。

That reality has been vividly illustrated in recent months as the authorities made final preparations for the Games. Instead of ushering in the new openness the Olympics were supposed to foster, the government has clamped down on almost every aspect of life in the name of security. Thousands of foreigners living in China have been unable to renew their visas; many would-be tourists have been equally unlucky, leaving hotels that had expected to be bursting at the seams with occupancy rates under 50%. Organizers have been told unofficially that all outdoor gatherings in the months before the Games are banned. Clubs that had operated with impunity are suddenly having trouble with their licenses. Human-rights activists, public-interest lawyers and other dissenting voices have been jailed or harassed. Police even detained and interrogated members of the Hash House Harriers, a beery running club, suspicious that the flour they used to mark their runs might be part of a terrorist attack.

在最近准备奥运的几个月中，现实逐渐显现出来。政府不但不以此为契机更加开放，反而以安全为由对生活各个方面施加压力。数千在京外国人无法更新签证，很多想来京的游客实在运气不佳，期待着爆满的酒店的入住率不到50%，组织者被私底下告知在奥运会之前的几个月不得进行一切户外集会。一些平常不受盘查的俱乐部突然在执照上遇到麻烦。人权活动者，公共权利律师和其他异见者遭到逮捕和侵扰。警察甚至逮捕讯问了HHH的成员，怀疑他们用于定向越野计时的粉末是恐怖袭击举动的一部分。威权者的种种过分行径应该会随着奥运的结束而减少。

And in any case, it's increasingly obvious that as the capital's creative sectors bloom, so does the ability of those working in them to circumvent or ignore the rules. That has helped shape a second city hidden under the bland façade of broad boulevards and marbled ministries, argues Hu Xudong, a noted poet, columnist and professor of literature at Peking University. "Underneath the official Beijing we have another Beijing that's more like Latin America than China," he says. The city's other art scenes are supercharged as well. "Ninety percent of China's film directors live here, and so do most of our writers." Today, Hu concludes, "Beijing is a place of real magic."

无论怎样，北京的创意产业的发展趋势越来越明显，产业中人挫败或忽视统治层的能力也在增长。这一切，造就了深没在林荫大道和深墙大户的政府之外的第二城，"在表层的北京城之下隐藏着另外一个北京，它就像是在拉美某个国家而不是中国。"，胡旭东，北京大学文学教授，专栏作家，知名诗人如是说到，这个城市其它的艺术领域也同样超负荷，"百分之九十的中国电影导演，还有大部分编剧云集此处。今天，北京是一个名副其实的魔力之城。"

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